I’ve mostly completed the major benchwork for The Industrial Lead. I have a couple of tasks to complete:

  1. Install drawer fasces.
  2. Fix Formica chips with SeamFil

But at least for now I’m able to move out the woodworking tools, clean up the major dust and start focusing on actually building the railroad.

View in youTube: The Industrial Lead – Benchwork Complete

  • I tacked in 13″ hardboard skyboards around the layout. I’ll be painting these Polar White.
  • I cut painted and installed the south and east valance fascias.
  • I started work on an under layout workbench. The melamine workbench table top rests on a 1 1/2″ slotted angle iron frame. The workbench is 30″ from the floor.
May 292012
Graffiti - Munk

Graffiti - Munk

I’m at a minor standstill while I wait for some supplies…


More T4 Slim Fluorescent Lights

I’ve ordered more T4 lighting from CYELITE. This time in blue. I’ll be using these along the south and east valance as nighttime lighting. I haven’t ordered from CYELITE before, but they were a bit cheaper than the last place I ordered from and offered free shipping. I really like the T4 lights. I want to get these lights installed before I install the valance fascia.

1/2″ Blue Foam

This is not available in the Seattle area, usually you can only find 1″,1 1/2″,& 2″ blue or pink foam. Well I found out you could order the stuff online from Lowe’s and pick it up at your local store. So I ordered two sheets of the 1/2″ Extruded Polystyrene Blue Foam. I want to get the foam down before I install the layout fascia. This won’t arrive until June 12.

Drawer Slides

I’ve designed the layout to have a few drawers below the deck; two on the east side and one on the south side. I had some drawer slides, but I wasn’t happy with the height of them. I looked on eBay and bought two 14″ full extension drawer slides and one 10″ full extension drawer slide. They are sold by eBay seller GlideRite Hardware. I’ll install these after the fascias have been installed and routed out.

While I Wait

I’ll probably work on some minor paint touch-ups, cut sky boards, paint skyboards, and maybe fiddle with some track arrangements. I’m getting close to completing the benchwork and excited to get on with the layout.


West Lighting Complete

I finished out the west side lighting by wiring up all of the blue night time LED’s along the north and west side of the layout. The LED bars are by Cryon. They make one hell of a birds nest. I’d prefer to use some slim fluorescent lights, but I’m decided to economize and recycle these from my previous layout. The light bars can be rotate to direct the light in an alternate direction.


West Valance

I completed the west valance. Mostly:) It still needs a little touch up paint. The valance fascia is hardboard. I brad nailed it to the valance frame. I installed my old Cryon LED lighting behind the valance; this will be my nightime blue lighting in this area.

Desk Complete

I finally cut the backboard and edged the shelves. I’ve also complete 90% benchwork and lighting work that needs to be done in this area, including: lighting, shelves, brackets. So I decided to move my computer back into the closet. I love it!

May 172012

The Old Tube Light

I installed the old 48″ double tube fluorescent fixtures from the Halland layout. In total 3 fixtures were installed; 2 on the west layout and 1 in the closet (north). They work fine, but I’m not sure if I’m going to keep them because I think they’ll be inconvenient to replace bulbs. I’m thinking about buying more T4 slim fluorescent lights. I found a cheaper supplier Cyelite.

I also broke out the old Cryon LED lighting I was using for blue lights on the Halland layout. I don’t think I have enough to encircle the entire layout, so I’m trying to determine where they will provide the most benefit. I’ll fill in the gaps with some blue T4 lights.

Raceway Power

I tapped into a power outlet on the north wall to run a surface mount non-metallic raceway power system. The route runs into the closet, then back around the rest of the room. Each box has two switched outlet pairs; one pair for daytime lighting and one pair for nighttime lighting. I got a few of the boxes cheap on eBay and at Habitat for Humanity. I had to buy six raceway strips ($10/ea.) and three or four boxes ($10/ea). The whole system set me back about $100. The NM power distribution system is made by Wiremold.

The raceway’s are partially wired. I need to complete the portion that runs inside the closet. I’m still deciding how to distribute the daytime/nighttime outlets.

Valance Frame

I need  a valance over the west wall. It’ll hide the lights and act as a mount for my decorative train memorabilia. I made the frame with 3/4″ plywood and mounted it to the ceiling with angle brackets secured with EZ Ancor drywall anchors (which I love)


Slim Fluorescent

As I mentioned in my post Valance Brackets, I’m using linkable slim fluorescent lighting for the valance. The lights I purchased are T4 – 24W. The color temperature is 6400K. They are 34 1/2″ L x 3/4″ w x 1 3/8″ H. Very small. The lights come in a kit with 6′ plug, 6″ link cord, direct link fitting, and two mounting clips. The mounting clips screw to the underside of the valance and the lights slide right in. I linked four lights together. Installation took about ten minutes.

How Do They Look?

You can judge, but I think they look awesome. I love how bright they are. W’ell get a better idea when the valance fascias are installed.

I purchased my lights on eBay from seller finestcorp2010. Good price, good service, and packed well. You can also buy them from Savio Lighting.

Update 5/10/2012

I took out the lights and reinstalled them with a 45 degree mounting blocks. I think the new installation throws more light onto the layout surface.


Apr 222012

I was able finish up cutting the main deck. I cut a filler piece for the east wall, filled a large gap on the south wall and re-cut the west wall that leads into the closet. I’ll still need to frame and deck the closet. That’s probably my next phase.

I also cut the curve piece for the valance. This is also my second attempt at this. The curve is an 18″ radius. To cut the curve, I drew it out on a 19 1/2″ square piece of plywood and jig sawed the curve, leaving the extra 1 1/2″ straight edge of plywood on the right angle sides. I then cut that 1 1/2″ straight edges from the curve and used them to mount the curve. This method allowed me to cut the whole 90 degree curve.

I also purchased valance lights. 34 1/2″ 24W T4 slim fluorescent lights from eBay dealer finestcorp2010. I like the slim design and linkability. The are 6400K color temp.

Once again thanks to my parents for taking the boys for the day.

Apr 192012

I painted the top and underside of the valance Polar White. Then installed the triangle brackets that provide the permanent support for the valance. Next fascia and lights.

I got a little worried about whether 1/8″ hardboard would make the 8″ radius curve around the northeast corner of the valance. But I tested it and it should work no problem. I plan to use install the fascia two sheets thick. That way I will have smooth side on both sides. The outside face of the fascia will be painted Stealth Jet. I can’t decide if the inside of the fascia should be Polar White or Stealth Jet.

I think I’ve found my lights: slim T4 fluorescent lights like these available at Savio Lighting. The fixtures are 3/4″ wide and 1 1/2″ deep. They come in various lengths. I’ll probably get four 24W 34 1/2″ fixtures. I think I’ll get the 6400K color temp. These lights are linkable. The biggest drawback to these lights I can’t find a local source for bulbs.


More benchwork today. I started with a tricky section that would be the sub-roadbed where the main layout enters the closet. I spent a lot of time cutting it to dimensions from the plan but didn’t bother to check the angles in this area. Bad idea. It fit awkwardly, and only after a couple of trims. I scrapped the piece and will work on another one later.

I decided to handle the awkward closet junction by mounting a U-girder. I made sure the U-girder was square and level with the layout. From here I’ll measure back to the wall to get the dimensions I’ll need to fit this awkward location.

I made the remaining cuts to the West deck. This was the second attempt at this mammoth 92″ piece. The tricky cuts were around the ends to provide a 3″ bump-out into the window sill. It all fit on the first cuts and I screwed it down.

I used a little pink foam to stiffen up the rounded corner section of the valance. This should help shore this area up and prevent it from possible damage.

It’s been a very productive 3 days. I can really see the layout start to take shape. One thing that has helped is not painting everything before I install it. Maybe, I’ll regret that later, but looking at my progress, I certainly don’t regret it now. :)

© 2012 Greg Amer
Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha